Phillips inaugural Geneva jewelry auction includes a range of important diamonds, colored gemstones, and vintage and contemporary signed jewels. Named “Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE,” the 110-lot sale will be held November 6 at the Hôtel La Réserve.
The top lot of the sale is a 20.19-carat fancy-intense-pink diamond with an estimate of CHF 10 million to CHF 15 million ($11 million to $16.5 million). The cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, VVS1-clarity gem is the fourth-largest intense-pink diamond ever to appear at auction, Phillips said in a statement.
“We are seeing global demand for rare and captivating jewels and our Geneva offering presents a meticulously curated selection,” Benoît Repellin, Phillips worldwide head of jewelry, said in a statement. “We eagerly anticipate showcasing these exceptional pieces as we continue our international highlights tour this month, leading up to the preview and auction in Geneva in November.”
Statement diamonds (both fancy colored and white diamonds) play an important role in the sale and the number two lot is a 54.27-carat, fancy-intense-yellow, internally flawless diamond with an estimate of CHF 1.2 million to CHF 1.6 million ($1.3 million to $1.8 million).
Other important fancy-colored diamonds include an oval, 1.52-carat, fancy-intense-purplish-pink, set on a platinum ring designed by British jewelry house, Boodles. The shank of the ring is centered with a row of brilliant-cut diamonds. Its estimate is CHF 180,000 to CHF 270,000 ($200,000 to $300,000).
In addition, there’s a 24.07-carat, cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut, fancy-deep-brownish yellow diamond. It’s the centerpiece of a ring set with brilliant-cut diamond accents. Its estimate is CHF 135,000 to CHF 220,000 ($150,000 to $250,000).
Among colorless diamonds, the top lot (and the number three lot overall) is a gold ring by French jewelry house, Fred, centered with an oval, 15.60-carat, D-color, VS2 diamond with baguette-diamond accents. Its estimate is CHF 450,000 to CHF 720,000 ($500,000 to $800,000).
Colored gems and pearls in the sale are led by three signed pieces from prestigious jewelry houses. They are:
Bulgari earrings featuring two unheated Burmese sapphires of 16.66 and 17.74 carats as well as diamonds and rubies. Its estimate is CHF 315,000 to CHF 500,000 ($350,000 to $550,000).
A diamond ring by Graff set with a 9.37-carat, unheated ruby from east Africa with an estimate of CHF 290,000 to CHF 450,000 ($320,000 to $500,000).
Natural saltwater pearl drop earrings by French jewelry house, Sterlé, circa 1960s, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, are suspended from a surmount set with a marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds. Its estimate is CHF 270,000 – 450,000 ($300,000 – $500,000).
Other important colored gems in the sale include:
A 5.02-carat step-cut unheated Kashmir sapphire set on a diamond ring with an estimate of CHF 180,000 – 270,000 ($200,000 – $300,000).
A drop-shaped Colombian emerald on a gold necklace with a ribbon design accented with circular-cut and baguette diamonds. The clasp is set with shield-shaped, hexagonal and baguette diamonds. Its estimate is CHF 140,000 to 200,000 ($160,000 – $220,000).
In addition to vintage jewels from several by historical French jewelry houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, there are a number of contemporary jewels in the sale by artists and designers who are making a mark with their high jewelry creations. Among the pieces are:
A floral brooch by Hemmerle set with a 3.40-carat cushion-shaped unheated Burmese ruby accented with caliber-cut emeralds and sapphires. Its estimate is CHF 35,000 – 50,000 ($40,000 – $60,000). It’s one of six pieces in the auction by the Munich high jewelry house.
Pair of “Chevron” shaped earrings by Geneva jewelry house, Margaret, each set with a cushion-shaped aquamarine, accented with single-cut diamonds set in foliate motifs. Its estimate is CHF 40,000 – 60,000, ($45,000 – 65,000). It’s one of two pieces by Margaret in the sale.
The “Edge” cuff by French jewelry house, Viltier, is set with brilliant-cut diamonds on each edge of the gold bangle. Its estimate is CHF 22,000 – 32,000 ($25,000 – $35,000). It’s one of two examples of the Viltier “Edge” bracelets in the auction.
A “Lotus” gold bangle by Dries Criel set with tiger’s eye panels. Its estimate is CHF 6,000 – 9,000 ($7,000 – $10,000). It’s one of two pieces by the Belgian jewelry house in the auction.
A “Burmese Leaves” ring by Maison Alix Dumas designed as two leaves, set with oval and circular-cut spinels, and accented with circular-cut pink sapphires. Its estimate is CHF 8,000 – 12,000 ($9,000 – $14,000). It’s one of two pieces by the French jeweler being offered.
A pair of butterfly earrings by Brazilian art jeweler, Silvia Furmanovich. Each piece is modelled as a butterfly, the marquetry wood wing set with a pear-shaped pink tourmaline and the antenna pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its estimate is CHF5,000 – 8,000 ($6,000 – $9,000). It’s one of two pieces by Furmanovich on offer in the sale.